Now that you’re a bit more accustomed to the options available to you, there are a few key considerations we encourage you to examine and understand prior to making that final decision. Take a moment to review these terms and line properties so you can ensure you’re getting the line you need to be successful on the water:   

• Reel Compatibility: An obvious but sometimes overlooked feature when deciding on your line is whether it will be optimal for your reel set-up. The line type should match up with the reel’s capacity and type (Spinning, Baitcaster, etc.). 

• Line Strength: Fishing line strength, often referred to as the test and measured in lbs., refers to how much weight the line can handle before breaking. It’s imperative to select a line test in direct correlation with the type of fish you’re trying to land. 

• Line Stretch: Line Strech is exactly what it sounds like – this refers to how much the line can stretch while under pressure and can affect how you set a hook or fight a fish. 

• Castability: A lines castability describes how easily a line comes off the spool which directly affects how far and accurate it can be cast. 

• Memory / Flexibility: The memory of a fishing line describes how likely the fishing line is to take on the shape of the reel it’s wrapped around over time. Generally, anglers run into problems with their line and its castability when lines tend to coil and maintain too high of a memory.  

• Visibility / Color: Fishing line visibility refers to how easy it is to see the line on the water, and subsequently how easy it is for the fish to see it too. Color can be a main factor when it comes to visibility and while some anglers would prefer to see where their line sits depending on their situation, generally invisible or multi-colored lines that blend into their surroundings are less likely to spook any cautious fish.    

• Buoyancy: Fishing line buoyancy describes how a line in water will float or sink and to what degree. Different fishing techniques and lures often call for different types of line buoyancy. 

• Abrasion Resistance: The abrasion resistance describes how well a line can withstand damage from friction caused by running it against obstacles such as logs or rocks. 

• Sensitivity: Fishing line sensitivity refers to how well you can feel what’s happening under water when your line is out, including bites or hitting bottom. 

• Water Absorption*: The amount of water a line absorbs can often make it more flexible and easier for casting but can also ultimately weaken the line and decrease its strength over time.  

We bet you’re curious now as to how the line options type we mentioned fall into some of these more important line consideration categories. If you know what you’re looking for in the properties of your line, this chart will help you make a quick and easy purchasing decision:

Not exactly sure what properties would be best for your specific fishing adventure? Well, the short answer is that your needs constantly change depending on the water you’re fishing, species you’re targeting, and the season you’re in. After many attempts at trying to put together an all-inclusive, easy to navigate line decision tree for you, we were constantly reminded of the classic adage by Lao Tsu -  “give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.” 

With that in mind, let us take a stab at teaching you rather than telling you! Deciding on your line test is really a function of environment and optimization. In a vacuum, you can fish any test lb for any species at any time, but that’s just not practical. Fishing a 2lb test monofilament line for a largemouth bass may get you bit but hauling them in may be a totally different story, making it way less practical especially when the fish take off into the timber or heavy vegetation. In this scenario, there is very little chance that fish will be landed.  

It doesn’t always have to be that complicated though – for the most part, smaller tests (2-4lb) are perfect for smaller fish (panfish, crappie, etc.) and bigger tests (40 lb –65 lb) are perfect for bigger fish (musky, carp, catfish, etc.).  

Remember, you aren’t just fishing the line, you are fishing the system meaning the rod, reel, line, bait, and hook all have their part.  Anglers of all species have optimized their systems and certain line types and sizes are now the “norm” for specific techniques.  

Let’s use 50 lb braid as an example as it is the #1 line used to fish floating frogs. This lure floats which disqualifies fluorocarbon line and preferably you’d want zero stretch which disqualifies monofilament. Again, you can use any of these lines in theory, but your fishing experience will be the most successful with the strength of braid.  

The idea here is that there are a lot of factors but the more you understand your system and personal set-up, the easier a line decision becomes (although it might take some trial and error and that is totally okay)!  

Q – Can I use any line for my fishing reel?  

A - The short answer is no, you shouldn’t use just any line on your reel. The line size should match the reel and rod size and the weight should match or be close to the weight of the species you’re targeting.  

Q – When should I replace my fishing line? 

A – Replacement of your line entirely depends on the type of line and amount of action it is getting but generally, once or twice per year for the average angler should do the trick. Signs old line should be replaced include dryness, fraying, too much memory, and reduced casting distance.  

Q – Why is my fishing line coiling?  

A - Each type of fishing line has a different memory property. The memory of a fishing line describes how likely the fishing line is to take on the shape of the reel it’s wrapped around over time. Generally, you run into problems with your line and its castability when lines tend to coil and maintain too high of a memory. At this point, it is time to replace the existing line!  

Q – Which line is best for tying knots?  

A - Typically, the best line for tying knots would be the lightest line as it does not have the stiffness of the heavier lines. Stretch is a key factor in finding line that will tie the easiest so for that reason, monofilament line is normally the best for knot tying.